Day 2 - Our first full day in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, China

Day 2

Breakfast was at an almost respectable 7-30am on our first day but birding began before dawn with the unmistakeable calls of a bulbul. Stumbling out at about 7 the calls proved to belong to Chinese Bulbul [or Light vented].   A few birds were quickly added; White browed Laughing Thrush – which were very exciting to see as they were a lifer for all. [They were soon seen everywhere including our hotel’s dining room.] Tree Sparrows and Spotted Doves completed the list of ‘Absurdly Common Birds’.

In a nearby park, despite the distraction of a few folks deep in Tai chi, a few other species were added; White Wagtail, Oriental Magpie Robin, Little Egret, Chinese Blackbird [split from Eurasian] and Common Kingfisher did a quick fly past.

Oriental Magpie Robin

Chinese Bulbul - my first bird heard in China and one of the first seen

White-browed Laughing Thrushes - seen first in our kitchen dining room and then everywhere.

Breakfast included fried rice and vegetables, bacon and boiled egg, tang, toast and jam and, sadly, no coffee!

Young Giant Pandas

Chengdu Panda Base to visit Giant Pandas was our first stop according to our itinerary. This is a large research and breeding centre set in a well vegetated park! Plenty of pandas, including young ‘uns. Pleasingly the place was packed with the Chinese public – all apparently very, very happy to see exhibit after exhibit Giant Panda filled or themed. I must admit they are pretty cute. They are very much like large black and white Koalas in that they have limite behaviour options; they sit, sleep, eat, shit and occasionally move. We were lucky enough to see this full range of behaviour. We did not see mating and I believe few do as much of it is done with technological aids and one would need a special ticket for that…

This is a Giant Panda

This is another Giant Panda

This is a young Giant Panda

This is Panda food - before and after....

Red - billed Leiothrix - BOD!

Red-billed Leiothrix were common among the pandas as were the charming Black-throated Tits, which were very busy flying around in mixed flocks. Vinous throated Parrotbills were the first species seen of this enigmatic group and Rufous faced Warbler soon followed. Plain Prinia was another new bird.

Plain Prinia

Grey-capped Greenfinch

After walking several kilometres around the Panda Base midday sounded the call for lunch and it was done in style at, of course, a Chinese Restaurant. Too much food was the order of the day unless you’re talking to my wife where the official record is that ‘Ken ate only plain rice and some weakly boiled vegetable’. Meat? Beef, Pork, Rabbit, more pork, fish, Duck – most of the farmyard in fact. A few veges and mushrooms completed the feast.  

After lunch we had a cultural tour; visiting Wenshu Buddhism Monastery. Wenshu Monastery, initially built in the Southern Dynasty [420 – 589], is the best-preserved Buddhist temple in Chengdu and was the most eminent Buddhist Temple in all of the Sichuan Province. This temple complex is stilling visited by many living the faith and many were lighting incense and praying within the temples.

Buddhist devotees gaining 'magic' from a statue..

At one stage golden Chinese Lions were attracting attention; believers would rub the statues before rubbing their face and necks – apparently applying Buddhist good vibes by doing so. Best bird at the complex was Yellow-billed or Chinese Grosbeak.   

Yellow-billed Grosbeak

We visited the famous Sichuan Museum but by this time jet lag and or general tiredness was kicking in such that many of us found benches and had a rest – much like many of the Chinese visitors. Best bird near the museum was a Long-tailed Shrike.

The Bronze Goat Taoist Temple (Qing Yang Gong) is one of the most famous Taoist temples in China. 

After a very quick scrub our very full first day continued with a Sichuan Hot Pot. This involves dipping various meats and vegetables in one of two broths; one milky looking and mild, the other an evil bubbling red hot chilli cauldron. The meal needs some explanation and perhaps practice. I ate some cow stomach I believe. If you dislike meat and / or offal and / or you are afraid of chilli perhaps you should think twice about attending.

After dinner we watched the Sichuan Opera and Folk Arts Show in a traditional tea house. This included a 15 minute massage – perfect for the tired jet lagged international birder!  The show featured a variety of local and traditional theatrical arts such as puppetry, hand shadows, music, acrobats and dance. Much of the subtlety was lost on us however I enjoyed the violin – type stringed thing solo, the acrobats and parts of the shadow puppets could have got a gig on ‘Chinas Got Talent!’ The highlight was the face changing show, where elaborately costumed men with masks changed costumes and masks ala magician style.

Face-changing finale [ photo - J Robino]

stringed instrument solo [ photo - J. Robino]

6am to 10-30pm after about 5 hours sleep – job done!!

Bird of the Day - Red-billed Leiothrix!